Do you love tight ponytails, braids, or hair extensions? While these styles can look amazing, wearing them too often or too tightly can actually lead to a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. The good news is that traction alopecia is usually preventable – and even reversible in early stages – once you change some hair habits. In this article, we’ll explain what traction alopecia is, how to recognize it, and how to protect your hair from style-related damage.
What is Traction Alopecia?
Traction alopecia is hair loss caused by chronic pulling or tension on the hair follicles. Think of it this way: if you constantly pull on a plant, eventually it will uproot. Similarly, if hair is consistently tugged on – by tight hairstyles or headwear – the follicle gets stressed and can weaken over time.
Traction alopecia usually develops gradually. It’s most common along the hairline, especially the temples and edges, since those hairs often bear the most tension from styles like ponytails or braids. You might notice: - A receding hairline, particularly on the sides (temples) or around the forehead. For example, many women who frequently wear tight braids or ponytails notice the baby hairs or edges slowly thinning out. - Thin or broken hairs around areas of high tension – these might be short, broken-off hairs rather than smooth bald skin initially. - Sometimes small bumps, redness, or soreness on the scalp where hair is pulled tightly (especially when the style is freshly done or if it’s really too tight).
It’s important to catch traction alopecia early. In early stages, the hair follicles are stressed but still capable of growing hair if given a chance. You might just see thinner hair or some breakage. If the traction continues unabated, over time the follicles can be damaged or scarred, leading to shiny bald areas where hair no longer grows. In advanced longstanding traction alopecia, the hair loss can become permanent due to scarring.
Are Your Hairstyles Causing Hair Loss? Common Culprits
Certain hairstyles are frequently linked to traction alopecia, especially when worn tightly or for prolonged periods. Here are some common culprits:
Tight Ponytails and Buns: That sleek high pony or ballerina bun might give a snatched look, but if it’s pulling your scalp skin taut, it’s too tight. Wearing a high ponytail daily, especially if secured in the same spot, can cause thinning at the temples or crown. This is often seen in dancers, cheerleaders, or anyone who must wear hair up tightly for work or sports (even some men, like those with man buns, can get it).
Braids and Cornrows: Tight braids, whether they’re cornrows straight back or individual braids, put a lot of tension on the hair roots – particularly at the front hairline where the braids are anchored. If you feel pain or see those little bumps along the braid parts (sometimes called “braid bumps”), that’s a red flag that the style is too tight. Prolonged use of braids without breaks (and re-braiding tightly each time) is a major cause of traction alopecia around the edges.
Weaves and Hair Extensions: Sewn-in weaves often require the natural hair to be braided tightly to the scalp as an anchor. The thread and weight of the extensions can further tug on those braids. Glue-in extensions can also cause breakage (and if improperly removed, can tear out hair). Clip-in extensions, if clipped in the same spot daily, can create pressure points of traction. The heavier the extension and the finer your natural hair, the more risk. Heavy locs or very long braids can do this too – the sheer weight pulls on the scalp, especially around the hairline.
Tight Headwear or Coverings: People who wear tight turbans, hijabs, or even helmets for long periods can experience traction alopecia if the cloth or gear constantly rubs or pulls on the same spots. For example, some Sikh men who tie turbans tightly develop thinning at the front scalp. Or a construction worker who always wears a tight hardhat might see hair loss where the hat contacts the scalp.
Rollers or Hairpins: If you sleep in rollers frequently or use lots of bobby pins to hold a style tightly, those can create tension spots (and break hair).
Habitual Pulling for Styling: Even something like frequently twisting your hair into a tight knot or using rubber bands that snag can cause localized traction.
Culture and profession can influence hairstyles. Traction alopecia is particularly common among African American women due to certain cultural hairstyles (braids, weaves, etc.), and also seen in ballerinas, gymnasts, the military (tight buns), etc.. But anyone who consistently puts strain on their hair can develop it.
Early Warning Signs
The sooner you spot traction alopecia, the better chance you have to reverse it. Pain is a big one – hairstyles shouldn’t hurt. If your styling session leaves you with a sore scalp or headaches, it’s a sign of too much tension. Those little bumps on your scalp (follicular pustules) after tight styling are basically inflamed, irritated hair follicles complaining about the pull. Don’t ignore those.
Also watch for: - Thinning edges: Are you seeing more forehead than you used to? Does your braid part seem wider? Compare old photos if unsure. - Broken hairs: short, frizzy hairs along the hairline or where you attach extensions, indicating breakage or weakened hairs. - “Tenting” of scalp: When you pull hair into a style, if you see sections of scalp being pulled so tight it looks like the skin is lifted (like a tent), that’s too much. Scalp skin should lie flat and not be painfully stretched.
If you catch your hairline receding or thinning due to styling, now is the time to change habits – before those follicles give up for good.
How to Prevent and Stop Traction Alopecia
Prevention is key, and if you already have some traction hair loss, stopping the bad habits can allow hair to grow back (if the follicles aren’t scarred). Here are dermatologist-recommended tips to protect your hair:
Loosen Up: Simply put, ease the tension. You can still wear ponytails or braids, but they don’t need to be slicked back painfully. If you normally pull hair super tight, try a slightly looser ponytail – you should be able to fit a finger under it comfortably. For braids or cornrows, tell your stylist not to braid too tight, especially around the hairline (they don’t need to yank to make it neat). You can still have it look neat without that extreme tension. Opt for larger sections in braids or locs – bigger braids put less strain than lots of tiny ones.
Limit the Frequency: Avoid wearing the same tight hairstyle every day. Give your hair breaks. For example, if you keep hair in a bun for work, wear it down or in a loose style after work and on off days. If you love braids or extensions, consider not immediately re-installing them back-to-back; take a few weeks break between installs to let your hair recover.
Mind the Duration: Don’t keep any style in for too long. Extensions or braids ideally shouldn’t stay in for more than 6-8 weeks. Keeping them longer not only stresses hair but hair continues to grow out, adding more weight/tension on new growth. Also, regularly cleaning and caring for the scalp under any long-term style is important to avoid other issues.
Rotate Hairstyles: Change it up to distribute stress. Maybe wear a ponytail some days, a low loose braid other days, hair down occasionally, etc. If one spot is always bearing the brunt (like that exact same high pony placement), varying it will let that area rest sometimes.
Beware of Pain or Signs: As mentioned, if a style hurts, undo it. Beauty is not worth permanent hair loss. For kids, teach them to speak up if a style hurts – little ones might not know to say something if a parent or stylist is braiding too tight. Check their scalp for redness or bumps.
Use Hair-Friendly Accessories: Trade rubber bands for fabric-covered elastics or scrunchies (they pull less). Use bobby pins that aren’t too tight or sharp. If you wear wigs or weaves, consider ones that are glueless or use clips that are repositionable (and even then, move clip positions to not stress same spot daily). If you wear a headscarf or turban, use silky material or a satin bonnet underneath to reduce friction, and tie it not-too-tight or in different ways to change pressure points.
Care for Hair & Scalp: Keep your hair conditioned and moisturized – dry hair is more prone to breakage under tension. When you remove a style, do a gentle detangle and deep condition. Massaging your scalp can increase circulation, which might help keep follicles healthy. Also, avoid chemical relaxers or bleaching on already stressed edges – that compound damage can worsen things.
By implementing these changes, you can halt further traction damage. Hair often regrows once the constant pull is eliminated. How long to see regrowth? It might take a few months to notice improvement because hair grows slowly. But many people see fuzzy new baby hairs returning to former thin spots after several weeks of being kinder to their hair.
What if Hair Hasn’t Grown Back?
If you have areas that stayed smooth and bald despite changing your styling habits, it might mean traction alopecia has progressed to a point of scarring. Shiny bald skin with no visible hair follicles or tiny hairs is a sign that those follicles might be scarred and incapable of producing hair. In that case, further conservative measures might not bring hair back, but you have options: - Dermatologist Treatments: See a dermatologist. They might try treatments such as topical minoxidil to see if any dormant follicles can be awakened, or even steroid injections if there’s any inflammation. If there’s partial scarring, sometimes these can help a bit. - Hair Transplant: For permanent loss, a hair transplant is a solution. A surgeon can transplant hair from other areas (like the back of your scalp) into those bald spots. This is commonly done for receded traction alopecia hairlines. It can restore the look of your edges, but you must absolutely stop the styling practices that caused it or you’ll just damage the transplants too. - Styling Hacks: If the area is small, you can camouflage with hairstyles (e.g., swooping hair to cover a temple). Hair fibers or powders can help hide a thin hairline by lessening the contrast between hair and scalp. In larger areas, you might use scarves, headbands, or wigs as cosmetic cover-ups. - Acceptance: Some people, when faced with permanent loss, choose to embrace it. This could mean cutting hair into styles that blend with the loss (like shaving sides if edges are gone, which can look cool), or just not worrying about hiding it. That’s a personal choice, of course, and easier for some than others.
Real-Life Scenario and Hope
Consider an example: A woman who wore braided extensions continuously for years notices her once-thick edges are now sparse. She often had pain and bumps but thought it was normal. Now she sees her forehead area expanding. After learning about traction alopecia, she decides to change things. She gives up extensions for a while, and when she resumes, she opts for bigger, looser braids and leaves out the delicate baby hairs instead of braiding them. She stops using glue altogether. She also massages castor oil into her edges a few nights a week (some people swear by castor oil for hair strength, though evidence is anecdotal) and starts using minoxidil on that area. Result: Within 3-4 months, she notices a lot of short new hairs along her hairline. In a year, her edges look fuller and she can confidently wear her hair pulled back loosely without worry.
Another scenario: A ballet dancer always had a tight bun; her temples have scarred. She transitions to a softer hairstyle whenever possible and seeks help from a dermatologist. Some hair returns, but not all. Ultimately, she decides on a hair transplant to fill those areas, and the results allow her to wear any style without feeling self-conscious.
These scenarios show that while traction alopecia is real, it’s also largely preventable and often fixable if caught early. It’s all about listening to your hair and scalp – if they could talk, they'd ask for a little kindness and relief from constant tension.
Conclusion
Your hairstyle should be an expression of your style, not a source of hair loss. If you love braids, locs, ponytails, or extensions, you don’t have to abandon them – just wear them smartly and safely: - Keep them a bit loose. - Avoid continuous stress on the same areas. - Nourish and rest your hair between styles.
By making these adjustments, you can enjoy all the fun and creativity of hairstyles without sacrificing your hair’s health. Your hair will thank you by sticking around on your head, where it belongs!
And if you’re currently dealing with traction alopecia, take heart: with changes and possibly some treatment, there’s a good chance your hair can grow back. Be patient and gentle with your locks – they’re more fragile than they look. Here’s to rocking great styles and a healthy head of hair!
This is the end of this article.