From fun fashion colors to silky straight perms or bouncy curls, chemical hair treatments allow us to transform our look. However, frequent coloring and perming can come at a cost to hair health. If you’ve noticed hair breakage or dryness after these treatments, you might wonder: are dyes and perms sabotaging my hair growth? The truth is, hair dyes and perms can damage your hair shaft, making it more prone to breakage and giving the impression that your hair “isn’t growing.” The good news is that by understanding how these processes affect hair and by taking steps to minimize damage, you can still enjoy coloring or perming while keeping your hair growing strong. In this article, we’ll explain what happens to your hair during dyeing and perming, how that can impact growth, and practical tips to maintain healthier hair if you choose to chemically treat it.
How Hair Dye Affects Hair Health
Hair dye (especially permanent color and bleach) works by altering the structure of the hair strand. Permanent dyes usually involve an alkaline chemical (like ammonia) to open up the hair’s cuticle layer, then peroxide to remove some of the natural pigment and develop the new dye molecules inside the cortex of the hair. If you’re lightening your hair (bleach/highlights), a strong peroxide (often with persulfate boosters) is used to break down the hair’s melanin pigment. These processes are effective for color change, but they also can make hair weaker. For one, lifting the cuticle leaves it a bit “roughed up” – the cuticle never quite lies as flat or tight as it did pre-dye. Think of shingles on a roof that have been pried up; they don’t seal as well afterwards. This means dyed hair can become more porous (absorbing and losing moisture more easily), and if not cared for, it can feel dry and brittle.
Bleaching is particularly harsh: it breaks down not only pigment but can also degrade some of the protein structure in the hair. The disulfide bonds (the strong bonds giving hair its strength and shape) are broken during both bleaching and perming (more on perms soon). That’s why hair that’s been bleached extensively can feel mushy when wet and straw-like when dry – it has lost a lot of its internal support. Regular use of high-lift color or bleach can cause cumulative damage, leading to split ends and breakage. Importantly, most hair loss from dyeing is due to breakage, not the follicles stopping growth. So again, as with heat, it’s about length retention. If your hair is breaking off, it won’t seem to grow.
Does dyeing cause actual hair loss from the root? Generally not, unless there’s a scalp issue. Some people can have allergic reactions or irritation from dyes (e.g., from PPD – paraphenylenediamine – a common dye ingredient). A bad allergic reaction can cause inflammation that makes hair shed from the root, but this is relatively uncommon and usually temporary if it happens. The more common scenario is: you color your hair, and over time it becomes drier, and you notice lots of little broken hairs or thinner ends. Maybe when you brush, lots of short pieces come out. That’s breakage. Hair dyes, especially when overused or improperly used, absolutely can cause hair breakage and loss of length.
Another factor: if you overlap dye on hair that’s already been dyed (for example, recoloring the full length each time instead of just the roots), you intensify damage on the older sections. The ends of your hair could have been through multiple chemical processes and often show the worst damage (that’s why ends usually thin out if not trimmed). There’s a reason stylists often just do root touch-ups and only pull color through the ends for a short time or use gentler glosses for refresh – they are avoiding cumulative damage.
Hair color can also dry out hair by stripping natural oils. Ammonia and other alkali in dye raise the hair’s pH and can irritate the scalp’s oil balance too, sometimes causing a temporary increase in shedding due to scalp stress (not permanent loss, just reactive). If your scalp gets very dry or irritated from chemicals, it’s not an optimal environment for hair growth.
Now, not all dyes are equal. Semi-permanent or demi-permanent colors (which usually don’t use strong peroxide or ammonia) are much gentler – they mostly deposit color on the outside or just slightly inside the cuticle. These cause minimal damage but also don’t lighten hair. Bleach and permanent dye are the main culprits for structural damage.
How Perms (and Relaxers) Affect Hair
“Perm” is short for permanent wave – using chemicals to either curl or straighten hair (a straightening perm is essentially a relaxer). Perming works by breaking the hair’s internal disulfide bonds (the same strong bonds mentioned above) using a chemical solution (commonly ammonium thioglycolate for curling perms, or sodium hydroxide/guanidine hydroxide for many relaxers). The hair is then reshaped on rods (for curls) or combed straight (for relaxers) and a neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide) is applied to reform the bonds in the new shape. The result: hair takes on a new curl pattern or remains straighter permanently until it grows out.
However, breaking and reforming those bonds inherently weakens the hair shaft. Not all the bonds reconnect; some are lost. The process also often uses a high pH (alkaline) solution which swells the hair greatly. This strips moisture and leaves the hair more porous and fragile. Permed or relaxed hair often has a different texture – sometimes rougher or drier – compared to virgin hair because the cuticle has been opened and not all cuticles lay back smoothly. Additionally, perms can cause hair to lose elasticity; permed hair might stretch less before breaking. If overdone or done on already damaged hair, perms can cause noticeable breakage.
One telltale sign of perm or relaxer damage is hair that feels “gummy” or extremely stretchy when wet (that means the internal structure is very compromised), or hair that snaps easily when combing and has lots of split ends. Over-permed or relaxed hair can also have that dull, frizzy look – because of raised cuticles and reduced structural integrity, it won’t shine or hold moisture well.
Does perming cause hair loss from the roots? Typically no, but similar to dye, if the chemicals are improperly applied or left too long, they can burn the scalp. A chemical burn on the scalp can cause some hair to fall out and even in severe cases can cause scarring (which would permanently prevent growth in that spot). That’s rare with professional perms but not unheard of with strong relaxers especially. More commonly, if hair appears thinner after perming, it’s due to breakage or because the hair’s volume/texture changed (for instance, relaxing curly hair makes it lay flatter, so it might look like less hair even though the same number of hairs are on your head). Perms can also trigger temporary shedding in some cases if the scalp got irritated (like a mild telogen effluvium), but again, the primary issue is weakening of the hair fiber.
It’s important to realize perming (curling) and straightening (relaxing or Japanese straightening) are essentially two sides of the same coin – both break bonds; one reshapes to curly, the other to straight. So both have similar risks. Perming too often or on hair that’s already colored/bleached multiplies damage. Many stylists advise choosing either color or perm, or spacing them out by many weeks, because doing both can be very hard on hair. If someone bleaches their hair and then perm-curls it, you can imagine the stress – the hair might practically dissolve in severe cases.
The consequences of damaged hair from perms include shorter length retention (breakage mid-shaft or at ends means hair doesn’t get as long as it could), and the need to trim more frequently to manage the damage. Again, your follicles will still grow hair, but you might notice “my hair doesn’t grow past X length” because it keeps breaking once it reaches a certain age/length.
Myth Busting: Does Cutting or Not Perming/Dyeing Make Hair Grow?
There’s a common belief that giving up chemical treatments will make your hair grow like a weed. The truth is, if chemical treatments were causing breakage and you stop them, your hair will retain more length and thus appear to grow faster (since you’re not trimming off as much or losing hair to breakage). It’s not that your scalp grows hair faster without dye; it’s that the hair you grow stays intact. Some people also think trimming dyed or permed hair often makes it grow faster – trimming doesn’t affect the root, but it certainly helps maintain healthy ends. So, minimal trims might be needed more frequently if you continue chemical processing, simply to prevent splits from running up the shaft.
Now, some might ask: could chemical treatments cause permanent hair loss? Generally no, as long as they are done safely. There is a theory about very long-term use of relaxers possibly contributing to forms of scarring hair loss among some women (for example, central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia prevalent in some African American women has been speculated to have a chemical or traction component), but the science isn’t conclusive. It’s often a combination of genetics, styling practices, etc. For most people, the main risk of chemical processing is breakage, not baldness.
Alright, so dyes and perms can be tough on hair – but what can we do to minimize this damage? Let’s dive into tips to keep your hair growing despite coloring or perming.
Tips to Minimize Damage from Hair Dyes
Opt for Gentle Formulas or Techniques: If possible, choose demi-permanent or semi-permanent colors especially for darker or same-level shades. These have no or low peroxide and simply deposit color, causing much less damage. If you want to go lighter or cover lots of gray and need permanent dye, consider products labeled “ammonia-free” (they use alternatives that may be slightly gentler) or ones with conditioning agents. Also, avoid unnecessarily high peroxide volumes. For example, if you’re dyeing your hair darker or just refreshing color, you can use a lower developer (10-volume instead of 30). Only use high-volume developer for significant lightening and ideally, have it done professionally. There are also bond-protecting additives like Olaplex that salons mix into bleach/dye to mitigate damage – ask about those if you’re doing major color changes. They can reconnect some broken bonds and reduce breakage. Using a more gentle approach means your hair retains more strength and can continue growing without snapping off.
Stretch the Time Between Colorings: The less frequently you expose your hair to harsh chemicals, the better. If you color every 4 weeks, that’s quite frequent. See if you can extend to 6, 8, or even 12 weeks between touch-ups. In the meantime, use root touch-up sprays or powders for concealing regrowth or embrace a bit of root ombré look. When you do touch up roots, apply dye mainly to regrowth, not over the entire hair length each time. The ends of your hair often hold color and don’t need that same processing repeatedly. You might just freshen them up with a semi-permanent gloss for 5 minutes at the end of your root processing time, or not at all. By only bleaching or coloring the new hair growth, you spare the previously colored hair from repeated damage. Overlapping bleach is particularly damaging – skilled colorists will apply bleach carefully to just the line of demarcation. So, basically, touch up new growth only and avoid re-processing your ends as much as possible.
Pre- and Post-Treatment TLC: Before coloring, ensure your hair is in good shape. It can help to do a protein treatment a week or so before (protein can fortify hair so it handles the process better – but not the day of, as it might interfere with dye uptake). Also, avoid washing your hair the day of a dye job – having a little natural oil on your scalp can protect it from irritation. After coloring, use the conditioner that comes with box dyes (they often have silicones that seal the cuticle and restore softness) or if at a salon, they’ll often do a conditioning step. In the weeks after, deep condition regularly. Use hair masks that add back moisture (look for ingredients like oils, butters, fatty alcohols) and also ones with protein or bond builders occasionally, especially if you bleach. For example, you might do a moisturizing mask one week and a bond-repair or protein mask the next. Maintaining a balance of protein and moisture is vital for chemically processed hair to keep it strong yet flexible. Products like Olaplex No.3 at home, or DIY protein masks (like eggs, though commercial products are more predictable) can help keep your hair structure intact after dyeing. And of course, avoid additional stressors like heat styling too much on freshly colored hair – give it a break so it can recover.
Be Sun Smart: UV rays can further damage colored hair (cause fading and dryness) and compound damage. Use hair products with UV protection or wear a hat in strong sun. This isn't directly about growth, but it does help preserve the health of your colored hair so it doesn’t become more brittle. Similarly, chlorinated pool water is rough on colored hair (can even turn bleached hair greenish). If you swim, wet hair first and apply a leave-in conditioner before putting on a swim cap or at least rinsing after. All these little care steps keep your colored hair in better shape so it can grow without needing major chops due to damage.
Mind the Scalp: When dyeing, especially at home, follow directions to avoid scalp irritation. Don’t leave color on longer than necessary “for deeper color” – that can irritate the scalp and weaken roots. If you feel burning, rinse it off. Also, do a patch test before new dyes to ensure you’re not allergic (PPD allergies can cause serious reactions). A healthy scalp is the foundation for good hair growth. If you frequently get an itchy, flaky scalp after coloring, you might need to switch products or techniques (e.g., a gentler dye or having a pro apply it so it barely touches the skin). Some sensitive-scalp folks use barrier oils along the hairline or even on the scalp (which can possibly hinder dye at the roots a bit, but better than a burned scalp). Essentially, protect your scalp during chemical processing.
Less is More: Perhaps the ultimate advice – try not to drastically alter your hair color too often. Every big change (like brunette to blonde, blonde to black, etc.) is a lot for hair to handle. Sticking within a few shades of your natural color or doing partial treatments (like highlights instead of full bleach, or balayage where not every strand is bleached) can mitigate how much of your hair is exposed to harsh chemicals. For example, instead of fully bleaching all your hair to platinum, maybe do some face-framing highlights or a balayage – some hair gets lighter, some stays virgin, overall less damage. Or if you want to go darker, consider a semi-permanent that fades rather than a permanent dye, which you can top up without much damage. If you love frequent experimentation, consider using wigs or extensions in different colors to give your real hair a break. Many people do a big color change as a once-in-a-while treat and then let it grow out. In between, they may tone the hair (toners are generally less damaging than re-bleaching) to keep it looking nice. The less chemical exposure, the better your hair can retain strength and the longer it can grow without breaking.
Tips to Minimize Damage from Perms/Relaxers
Ensure Hair is Healthy Before Perming: Perming already damaged or brittle hair is asking for breakage. Do a strand test: most salons will test a small section of hair to see how it handles the perm solution. If it turns to “mush” or breaks, they’ll likely advise against perming. If you DIY (though caution – perms are best done by pros), always follow the test strand step. In preparation, build your hair’s strength. In the weeks leading up, keep hair moisturized and maybe do a protein treatment if hair is weak (but not immediately before the perm as extremely protein-loaded hair can become a bit brittle during perm). Also, clarify your hair of any heavy buildup before perm day – some stylists will have you wash (without conditioner) just before perm so the hair is clean (conditioner can hinder the perm solution). The hair should not have metallic salts or certain henna on it – those can react badly with perm chemicals (always tell your stylist if you’ve used those). Starting with the best possible canvas means the perm can “take” faster or at lower concentration, possibly minimizing damage. And if your hair is not in good shape, it might be better to skip the perm and focus on treatments first.
Go to an Experienced Stylist: A perm or relaxer is not the time to bargain hunt or experiment solo (unless you really know what you’re doing). The chemicals need to be precisely applied and timed. Overprocessing (leaving it too long or using too strong a formula) is what often causes severe damage. A professional can adjust the rod size, solution strength, and timing to your hair’s needs. For instance, fine or color-treated hair usually needs a gentler perm solution and shorter processing. There are “thio-free” perms or cysteine perms that are milder (though results might not last as long). A good stylist also won’t perm hair that can’t handle it; they may turn you away if your hair is too weak (that’s a sign of a caring professional). Similarly for relaxers, a pro will protect your scalp with base cream, apply the relaxer swiftly and evenly, and rinse at the right time – so you don’t end up with burns or over-relaxed (fried) hair. DIY relaxers are common, but be extremely careful: always follow timing, never overlap onto previously relaxed hair (just do new growth), and rinse/neutralize thoroughly. One major cause of relaxer damage is not using the neutralizing shampoo enough – any residual relaxer will keep eating at the hair until it’s fully neutralized. So it’s recommended to wash multiple times with neutralizing shampoo until no pink lather appears (some have a color change indicator).
Perm/Relax Infrequently and Only New Growth: Just like coloring, you don’t want to re-perm hair that’s already permed. For perms that create curls, you usually don’t reperm until the curls have grown/fallen out enough (could be 6+ months). For relaxers (straightening curly hair), touch-ups are typically done every 8-12 weeks, only applying the chemical to the curly new growth at the roots and not pulling it through the previously relaxed hair. This is crucial – overlapping relaxer onto already straightened hair can cause that hair to break off (it’s already in a weaker state from the initial relax). Using a protective cream or oil on the previously relaxed ends before a touch-up can help avoid overlap damage. The rule of thumb: the line of demarcation (where new curly hair meets old relaxed hair) is a weak point; treat it gently, don’t over-comb it, and when relaxing, be precise. If you stretch the time between relaxers, yes you’ll have some roots, but you’ll be preserving the health of your hair. Some manage to go 4-6 months, using braids or flat ironing roots in between – the longer you wait, the more hair growth you have to work with, which can be safely relaxed without double-processing the same area.
Aftercare for Permed Hair: Deep conditioning is a must after a perm or relaxer, and on a regular basis thereafter. Permed hair is drier (the perm chemicals strip moisture), so invest in a good moisturizing conditioner. Use it every time you wash, and do a weekly mask. For curly perms, you’ll want to keep those curls hydrated to reduce frizz – look for products for permed or curly hair that add moisture and define curls. Avoid products with high alcohol content (like some hair sprays or gels) as they can further dry hair. For relaxed hair, keeping it conditioned is equally important to maintain elasticity. Also, low-manipulation styling helps: permed/relaxed hair can break if roughly handled. Use wide-tooth combs, detangle gently, and consider protective styles (like loose braids or buns) to minimize constant combing or brushing. If you got a curly perm, don’t brush it (that’ll create frizz city and split ends) – use fingers or a wide-tooth pick/comb and scrunch in leave-in conditioner. For both, avoid heat styling as much as possible on top of it – your hair has been through enough! If you must heat style, be diligent with heat protectant and lower heat settings (and see the previous article’s many tips on that). Some people with relaxers still flat iron to get it bone straight – try not to do that daily, reserve for special occasions.
Trim Regularly: With any chemical process, some damage is inevitable. Plan to trim your ends regularly to nip split ends before they worsen. For permed hair, trims also keep the shape looking good (curls can get dragged down if ends are scraggly). For relaxed hair, trims ensure your ends stay thick and don’t split upward. Many relaxed hair aficionados trim a tiny bit (quarter inch) every relaxer touch-up or every other one. This way, the hair stays healthy and can still gain length since your new growth in a few months will exceed that small trim. It’s about maintenance. Yes, you want to grow your hair, but holding onto damaged ends will only cause more breakage and tangling – better to cut them off and let fresh, stronger hair take their place.
Moisturize and Protect Daily: Make use of leave-ins, hair oils (a light application on ends daily can do wonders), and protective hairstyles especially at night. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase or wrap hair in a satin scarf/bonnet – this reduces friction that causes breakage, which is extra beneficial for chemically treated hair that’s already more fragile. Keep your hair moisturized: for curly perms, maybe spritz with water and conditioner mix on non-wash days to rehydrate curls; for relaxed hair, apply a bit of hair lotion or serum to keep it supple. Dry, brittle hair breaks, so moisture is your friend. Also consider protein reconstructor treatments once a month or so to fortify the strands (especially if you relax, because that straightening seriously reduces protein in hair). There are mild protein leave-ins you can use more often too. Listen to your hair’s needs – if it’s feeling limp, ease up on heavy moisture and maybe give a protein boost; if it’s feeling hard, give moisture.
Don’t Perm and Dye at the Same Time: It’s generally advised not to do two major chemical processes close together. If you want to both perm and color, try to schedule them far apart (e.g., color your hair, then maybe a month later do a perm, or vice versa). Also, use more gentle coloring techniques on permed hair (perhaps a semi-permanent color rather than bleach). Some stylists can do a perm and then a gentle color rinse in one appointment, but doing a bleach and a perm back-to-back is usually a no-no. If you already have heavily bleached hair, many will refuse to perm it because it’ll likely turn into mush. So plan out your chemical changes thoughtfully – your hair can only take so much. The safest route to keep hair growing is to minimize how many processes you do. If you love color, maybe skip perming and use rollers or heat tools occasionally to style. If you love being curly and permed, maybe embrace your natural color or use very gentle color options like a tinted conditioner.
Bottom Line: Keep Hair Damage to a Minimum
Both hair dyes and perms alter the structure of your hair, and in doing so, they inevitably cause some damage. But by being strategic and gentle, you can absolutely have colored or permed hair that still grows well. It comes down to maintaining the strength of your hair so it doesn’t break.
To sum up key points: - Chemical treatments mainly affect hair growth by causing breakage, not by stopping your follicles. Hair can still grow from the root, but if the strand is weakened it may break off before reaching long lengths. - You want to strengthen and protect the hair shaft. Do this by spacing out chemical treatments, using proper techniques (like applying to new growth only), and following up with good care (conditioning, low heat, gentle handling). - Preventing breakage = seeing growth. When you reduce the amount of damage, you’ll notice less hair snapping off and therefore your hair retains more of the length that your scalp is producing. Many people find that when they cut down on frequent dyeing or relaxer overlaps, suddenly their hair seems to “grow faster” – it was growing all along, it’s just not breaking as much now. - If you ever feel your hair is getting significantly damaged (feels like rubber when wet, breaks when you run a hand through it, etc.), take a pause from processing. It might be time to give it a long rest, get a good haircut to remove the worst damage, and focus on nurturing it back.
At the end of the day, it is possible to have fun with your hair and still keep it healthy enough to grow. Look at people who have long, colored hair or long, relaxed hair – they achieve it through diligent care and finding what works for their hair. It might require more effort (yes, sometimes being low-maintenance yields longer hair because you’re not touching it – but not everyone wants to be that). So if you enjoy coloring or perming, that’s fine! Just be prepared to pamper your hair extra to compensate.
In conclusion, minimizing damage from hair dyes and perms is all about moderation and care. By following the tips outlined – choosing gentler options, proper timing, vigilant conditioning, and safe practices – you can maintain strong strands. Strong strands = less breakage = longer hair over time. So go ahead and rock that color or texture change if it makes you happy, but treat your hair kindly every step of the way. Healthy hair truly is beautiful hair, and with the right care, it will keep growing and glowing.
This is the end of this article.